Here are the noteworthy and newer examples of tourbillon watches to add to your collection. And where better to start your collection than with Breguet?
Backstory: Abraham-Louis Breguet invented the tourbillon in 1801 to improve the precision of a watch and counter the effects of gravity. This was a very long time ago, and when timepieces were worn vertically on the body. Abraham-Louis Breguet aimed to “devise a way of negating the effects of the earth’s attraction on the functioning of the oscillator and, on the basis of this, improving the chronometric accuracy of the movement.” He decided to “incorporate the balance wheel and spring as well as the escapement (lever and escape wheel) in a mobile casing rotating on itself.” He devised the name “tourbillon” for the “double rotation of the cage and its parts in reference to the long-forgotten notion of a planetary system rotating around a single axis.”
If you wish to own a tourbillon watch with historical relevance, Breguet it is. New for 2019, Breguet’s Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat Squelette 5395 has an extra-thin three-millimeter thick skeleton design for its tourbillon movement, making it one of the finest self-winding tourbillon movements in the world. The 41-mm case in 18-karat rose gold has a delicately fluted case band with a domed glass-box. Water-resistant to 30 meters, the watch is available with a gray movement in a rose gold case, or with a rose movement in a platinum case.
A. Lange & Söhne’s new take on tourbillon comes in the form of the Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon. Introduced earlier this year, the limited-edition watch features a white gold case with a lovely pink dial. The hour and minute hands along with the hour markers at 3,6,9, and 12 o’clock are luminous. The Datograph is fitted with a hand wound movement (L952.2). The grand date, perpetual calendar with a moonphase display, power reserve and flyback chronograph lend to the technical functionality of the complex timepiece.
Harry Winston uses four distinct tourbillons, dedicating the Histoire de Tourbillon 10 to superlative chronometry. The Histoire de Tourbillon 10 complication is powered by two pairs of fast-rotating barrels that provide a 55-hour power reserve. Supported by two transverse bridges, the four tourbillons of the HW4702 caliber, that has around 673 components, in the four corners of the case, are housed in a glass box. The Histoire de Tourbillon 10 collection has two styles, 10 of each, in 18k white and rose gold and a special edition single timepiece for the Winstonium model.
The reimagined Octo Roma Monete secret watches are available in pink gold and platinum. The extra-thin skeleton movement in pink gold is mounted with the antique Roman coin on its face that opens to reveal caliber BVL 268 SK, a mechanical manufacture movement with manual winding and flying tourbillon. Encased in the iconic Octo case, the Octo Roma Monete timepiece has an ultra-thin tourbillon movement and 52-hour power reserve. The 18K pink gold 44-mm octagonal case is wide enough to fit the coin and the Finissimo Skeleton Flying Tourbillon movement.
Ulysse Nardin’s Executive Tourbillon Free Wheel has a fantastic futuristic movement that makes it a refined and audacious timepiece. The watchmaker has used four novel materials on the Osmium dial and barrel cover, making each watch unique. The brand has revived the 17th century old technique of straw marquetry for this design. Light weight Carbonium forms a key component of Executive Tourbillon Free Wheel that has a seven-day power reserve. Encased in a 44-m case with a sapphire crystal case back, the watch is water resistant to 30m.
The self-winding flying tourbillon gold dial is covered with ‘Grand Feu’ enamel evoking a timeless lustre. The pink gold hour-markers and hands illuminate the black dial. The watch is equipped with a Calibre 2950 and decorations include snailing and hand-polished bevels on the caseback side. Code 11.59 ‘stands for its genetic code on the brink of tomorrow.’ The new open-design lugs are a key defining feature. Audemars Piguet’s Code 11.59 Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon is available in cases with rose gold or white gold, with smoked blue and grand feu enamel dials.
Swiss luxury watch company Zenith’s Defy El Primero Fusee Tourbillon watch, powered by the new El Primero 4805 SK calibre movement, is available in two variants — carbon and platinum. The carbon fibre work is extended to the open dial with the central skeletal element and surrounding flange ring. The platinum model is limited to 10 pieces. With a power reserve up to 50 hours, water resistance to 10 ATM, Tourbillon Fusee-Chain calibre with 575 components make up the characteristics of this watch.
Jaeger‑LeCoultre’s Master Grande Tradition Gyrotourbillon Westminster Perpétuel is the latest generation of multi-axis tourbillon produced by the Maison. The timepiece, which is limited to just 18 editions, has three emblematic complications – a constant force Gyrotourbillon®, a minute repeater with a Westminster chime that reproduces four melodies on the wrist, and a perpetual calendar that adjusts itself in both directions. At the heart of the Master Grande Tradition Gyrotourbillon Westminster Perpétuel lies precision. The blue enamel guilloché dial, fine hammering and grand feu enamel lend elegance to the high complication housed in a 43-mm diameter white gold case.
The two Perpetual Calendar Tourbillon Manufacture models are presented in a substantial 42-mm diameter 3-part case, available either in polished stainless steel or in 18K rose gold. The complication is equipped with the in-house automatic FC-975 movement with a Silicium escapement wheel and anchor. The Perpetual Calendar does not require manual correction before 400 years. The exquisite Perpetual Calendar Tourbillon Manufacture is available in 88 pieces in the stainless-steel version and 30 pieces in the 18K rose gold case. The blue accents lend a sporty feel to the design.
Panerai’s Luminor Tourbillon GMT – Lo Scienziato is highlighted by a Grade 5 titanium case, with a sandblasted finish and a steeper gradient. The visual contrast is highlighted by the bezel, the crown and the lever of the crown-protecting Safety LockTM device which are made of carbotech. The 47-mm case is made of Grade 5 titanium. The identity of the Luminor Tourbillon GMT is reinforced by the P.2005/T caliber. The watch has a power reserve of six days.
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