When considering the pricing of a modern luxury wristwatch, some of the first topics to consider are R&D, (in the case of precious metal watches) the pure material value or the filigree movement. On the other hand, standardized elements such as sapphire crystal, the case or the dial, are less important.
You’d think. Normally, this assessment is correct, but as is so often the case, exceptions confirm the rule, especially when it comes to enamel dials. In contrast to industrially manufactured dials, which are stamped from a piece of metal and then further processed, enamel dials are underestimated marvels that require enormous craftsmanship. Here we take a brief look at the underlying production process to understand how the high price is justified.
What Exactly Are Enamel Dials?
First
of all, it can be said that there are many different production
processes, and these all have extravagant names such as Cloisonné,
Champlevé or Grisaille. However, the most common is considered to be
the Grand Feu process (in English: big
fire), of which we will delve deeper in
this article.
Without
wanting to digress into a highly technical explanation, in layman’s
terms the Grand Feu process is a special powder applied to a dial
copper blank. This powder is then placed in a kiln at approximately
800°C, so that the powder melts and “burns” onto the
blank. This process is repeated until, for example, the desired
colour and thickness is achieved.
Despite all experience, a perfect Grand Feu enamel dial is incredibly difficult to achieve, as it can quickly burst or break during the firing process. Even specialists like Donzé Cadrans, who produce for Ulysse Nardin or Patek Philippe, for example, state that scrap rates of up to 75% are quite common. In other words, three-quarters of the dials produced cannot be sent to the customer – that’s how demanding the production process is.
However,
the result of a perfect enamel dial is inimitable – in the truest
sense of the word – and is well worth the effort. While other
techniques, such as lacquering, can achieve a visually similar
result, nothing can match the radiant shine and creamy texture of
genuine enamel dials.
Well,
the production of said dials is undoubtedly a laborious and therefore
expensive undertaking, but is it € 10,000 expensive? If you believe
manufacturers like Ulysse Nardin, Breguet or Jaeger-LeCoultre, yes.
But
if you asked the young Scotsmen behind anOrdain, the results would
surely be a different one. The brand, whose name was inspired by the
roadside loch Loch an Ordain
in the Scottish Highlands, has made the production of inexpensive
Grand Feu enamel dials its business, and with great success.
Today
the brand offers two collections: Model 1 and Model 2, all of which
have contemporary diameters of 36 and 38mm respectively, and are
equipped with Sellita calibres. For the entry level watch, anOrdain
asks for a fair £ 1,320 (approx. € 1,430), but in return you get a
very handsome automatic watch with a genuine Grand Feu dial. Pretty
cool.
If you don’t like “microbrands”, you can enamel dials at established brands as well. Seiko, for example, also has a watch featuring a white enamel dial in its Presage collection, Ref. SPB047, which has a RRP of € 1,100.
As so often, Seiko’s got your six.
Conclusion
The
majority of watches with enamel dials are beyond the four-digit price
range, as production is extremely complex, time-consuming and
therefore expensive. However, if you have nevertheless succumbed to
the charm (and don’t want to spend three months’ salary on it), the
enamel experts at anOrdain are your best bet. For under € 2,000,
depending on the model and version, you can get one of the most
time-honored watchmaking techniques on your wrist for an extremely
fair price.
[…] of finishing and refinement. The dial of the 44mm watch is made of Grand Feu enamel (more on this here) and for the other components Ferdinand Berthoud also relies on his own craftsmen and traditional […]
August 19, 2020
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[…] of finishing and refinement. The dial of the 44mm watch is made of Grand Feu enamel (more on this here) and for the other components Ferdinand Berthoud also relies on his own craftsmen and traditional […]